René Kollegger
Written by Franz Weninger on the 21st of September 2025I've known René Kolleger for some time through social media, where he caught my attention as a self-confessed Welschriesling enthusiast. We finally met in person at the last winemaking championship in Rust. Shortly afterward, we visited him at the Pfarrhof in St. Andrä im Sausal, where Harald Irka and his partner Lisa, who takes care of guests and customer service, cook – and where René brings the perfect wines. Right before the harvest, we had a wonderful evening there – good food, exciting wines, and lots of conversation.
René has long been one of the best sommeliers in the country. After his time at the Schlosskeller Südsteiermark, he is now head sommelier at the Pfarrhof. He also co-founded the Styrian Sommelier Association PROFI to promote continuing education. And he hosts the podcast Einfach Trinken, where he shares his passion for wine in a straightforward and direct way.
Tasting notes by René Kollegger
With golden-yellow vitality, this Furmint flows into the glass. On the nose it initially appears slightly reductive, then opens with fine notes of mandarin, bergamot, wet limestone and delicate chamomile blossom. On the palate, it moves forward with drive and, at the same time, impressive elegance – like a Puch G heading uphill. Fine tannins reminiscent of white tea meet a firm structure, carried by juicy Rubinette apple, a hint of beeswax, ripe Williams pear and the fresh lift of salted lemon. This wine grips the palate, irresistibly invites the next sip, and remains memorably present. A fascinating interpretation of the variety – full of elegance, character and clear sense of place.
Light-footed like Fred Astaire, this wine floats into the nose, unfolding a playful aromatic dance. Delicate notes of Chioggia beet, red currants, juicy damson plum and a subtle hint of rosehip tea. On the palate, it mirrors pure lightness – a graceful body carried by succulent sour cherry, a touch of bitter almond and, once again, a whisper of rosehip. Uncomplicated, charming and filled with natural drinkability, this red wine feels like a dancing companion for carefree moments. A fresh acidity and finely woven tannins provide structure and elegance without weighing down its lightness. Lightly chilled, it becomes the ideal partner for sunny hours on the terrace or a hearty bacon snack – a wine that brings joy of life into the glass.
Playful and finely woven, the nose opens with alluring aromas of spiced plum, juicy sour cherry and a delicate hint of leather, gently caressing the senses and setting the stage for a profound yet elegant Blaufränkisch. On the palate, it shows a purist character, carried by a lively, light-footed acidity and the finest tannins that awaken the taste buds. Nuances of black tea, beetroot, black pepper and blackcurrant add depth and seriousness without disturbing the balance. In its grace, as elegant as Brigitte Bardot, yet endowed with the firmness of a great Blaufränkisch, it reveals its schist soil origin, which lends it radiance and promises a great future. A wine that unites elegance and complexity while never losing its joyful, thirst-inducing charm.
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