Helena Jordan

Written by Petra Gratzer-Weninger on the 21st of June 2024

We met Helena last year at the Gault Millau Awards. We had already become aware of her because she had opened a wine bar in St. Valentin, Lower Austria. On the one hand, we found this extremely appealing, as Petra's family also originally comes from St. Valentin, but on the other hand, we also found it very brave, as a wine bar with a focus on natural wines is still a rarity in rural Austria.
But when we met Helena in person, it quickly became clear: with her energy and passion, she was exactly the right person for such a project.
And so, after her professional stints in Oslo, New York, and Vienna, Café Capra in St. Valentin was born.

Tasting notes by Helena Jordan

At Capra, we still serve the 2022 Feherburgundi. In contrast, it was all the more exciting for me to taste the 2023 vintage. "You absolutely have to aerate this wine. It's been freshly bottled and is still a bit sealed," the Weningers advise me. Even aerated, I can confirm this: it continues to develop in the glass. Like the best introverted people, or slightly reductive wines: with space and time, you get to see/taste/smell completely new sides of them. What came first? Perhaps the freshly mown meadow, the elderberry, a herbal verjuice. Then honeycomb, honey wax, flint, and a wonderful smokiness, the kind you usually only find in Muscadets from the Loire.
Spicier on the palate, with less to no fruit. The color scheme is green and yellow. Floral, stony, mineral. But who knows what the next sip will hold.
Music pairing for the wine: "Introvert" by Little Simz (versatile, complex, lyrics!!)

Oh yes. Solera system. I'm a fan of blending vintages. It makes everything even more complex and exciting.
Oh yes. A fresh, light summer red wine. The best of both worlds.
The Weningers really hit my tastes: uncomplicated, refreshing, FUN. We drink the wine with a round of dice poker and really have to concentrate to remain professional. The wine invites you to let go, close your eyes, and maybe drink a little too quickly.
We are and will remain professionals: cherry, cherry blossoms. Japan in spring. A lovely spice on the finish. Is that soy sauce? Umami, definitely. Before you know it, the bottle is empty, and the philosophizing is over. There's no need to even start.
Music pairing with the wine: "Big in Japan" by Alphaville (good old good old, sing-along, "guade Scheibn")

So young and it's already ready to go? That's probably what you'd think of the 2023 Blaufränkisch Kirch. The answer is: YES. We want to pour it a large glass and smell it for a long time. It's not easy to get to the heart of the matter.
And yes, something's happening. Cherry AND plum. That shouldn't be the case, says the sommelier trainer at Austria's major training centers. Well, it is. And young Blaufränkisch is also allowed. Fresh and fruity. Spicy and sparse. There are many Italian herbs added, which remind us more of Nebbiolo. Rosemary. Oregano, and then those juicy tannins. Yes, definitely Piedmont... Or maybe "just" Hochäcker's direct neighbor. Conclusion: like the modern Piedmontese, it's already enjoyable. But it promises to become even more complex and rounded.
Music pairing with the wine: "Nuovo" by Donauwellenreiter (Italian/Austrian, smooth, inspires dreams)

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